A Monumental Decision

I have enjoyed the city of Leuven because, as a student, I have finally found a city with which to identify. I realize now that, until this point, I have examined these various cities of the BENELUX countries from an outsider's perspective and have not really connected on a personal level to any particular city. Leuven, unlike the previous cities we have visited and written about, is a university town. It's history, its architecture, and even its role in the world of beer all exude an air of collegiate scholasticism.

Leuven, Belgium

All throughout the city there are monuments and buildings with aesthetic details that subtly remind the city's inhabitants of Leuven's academic history. I particularly enjoyed the Statue of Fons and the beetle needle monuments in the city. Both provide very fun commentary on Leuven's role as a college town. The Statue of Fons, for example, shows a young man reading a book while pouring a glass of beer over his head. Read as a metaphor, this statue suggests the constant cycle that comprises the typical student life. Study, study, study, drink and party. The fountain of beer washing over the young man's head reminds the viewer of the recklessness of drinking and the physical effects beer has on the mind and intellect. The statue seems to serve as a warning while remaining first and foremost playful, in celebration of the college lifestyle.

In addition, there is also a sense of availability. The beer from the glass keeps pouring, never ending in its flow. As a town, Leuven currently has mixed feelings over its beer Stella Artois since it was taken over by a large Brazilian multinational. However, the locals still possess a sense of pride regarding its origins here in the city. In addition to being a college town, Leuven was a brewing town. Oftentimes, these two city aspects mixed so as to benefit the other. In the 18th century, the library was combined with the city's beer and wine cellars. This proved a profitable venture and one reflected on the library shelves. In his sense, the establishment of the university directly impacted the city's economy. Even today, this connection between beer consumption and collegiate endeavors remains strong. According to survey, students drink approximately 540 liters of beer and wine annually, a figure double that of the average citizen.

Architecturally, the presence of the university impacted the overall aesthetic appearance of the city as student housing required adaptations and renovations, particularly during the 18th century. Rather than remaining a purely medieval city in its aesthetics, the city of Leuven has become a mix of styles. The monument of the beetle on the needle remains my favorite. I enjoy its message and appreciate its wit. According to our city tour, the monument signifies the death of distraction. In ancient times, the beetle was considered a threat due to its consumption of important crops. Similarly, through this statue, the city encourages the destruction of distraction, the end of the endless consumption of time.

Leuven reminds me a great deal of Berkeley and the Bay Area, so I find myself loving this town a great deal. I think the architecture and aesthetics succeed in reflecting the city's history and personality. When I venture into the city, the term character comes to mind, just as it does while I am in Berkeley. Berkeley consider incorporating some of this collegiate scholasticism into its city.

 

Sophia

A Linguistic Discovery Indeed

This program has provided one of the most enriching learning experiences I have ever had. Unlike the typical lecture course, and the standard study abroad program, the traveling nature of the BENELUX program allowed for first hand study of cultural, historical, artistic, architectural, linguistic, national, ethnic, and individual identities. This unique aspect of the program introduced me to many questions and thoughts about not only the Dutch identity but my own identity and how I define identity in general.

The importance of books, the Archives, Bruges, Belgium

The importance of writing, Leuven University Library, Leuven, Belgium

Going into this program, defining identity seemed as a simple a task as any. It only took about a week's worth of journal entries to realize that my understanding of identity had been limited to national and ethnic identities. Even these two means of defining identity, I now know, present problems. What is a national identity? Is time of residence a factor? How is a person characterized by ethnicity?

Unfortunately, I do not have answers to any of the above questions. I believe the development of such answers would require a lifetime's worth of study. However, at least for the time being, I am content to say that I have broken outside of my once very limited definition of identity, and I now understand how complex a study this concept truly is. I believe my favorite defining element of identity studied this summer, that I have never considered important, is the notion of language. It was eye-opening to learn how important the Dutch language is to the Low Countries and the identity of its inhabitants. My favorite lectures included the Nederlandse Taalunie lecture in The Hague as well as the lecture given by director of the cultural organization Ons Erfdeel, Luc Devoldere on the significance of the French-Belgian Border now dividing the Dutch language and culture into the two regions of French Landers and Belgian Glanders.

The linguistic importance was also stressed during our home stay dinner with former president and first female member to join the Order of the Prince, An De Moor. Playfully, though simulataneously serious, An and her family stressed the importance of Flemish Dutch over Netherlandish Dutch, insisting on its tonally aesthetic qualities.

Witnessing all of this first hand and also learning of the division and tensions between the Dutch and French language, I have come to realize how divided the world truly is. And I do not say this in a negative manner. the world is comprised of so many different countries that possess and want to promote and preserve their cultures that total unification is not only not possible, but should never be allowed. I can completely understand why there are organizations that seek to promote the Dutch language.The universality of the English language, I now recognize, can be interpreted as a threat to multiculturalism, an aspect of our world that I find so special, even if it means learning multiple languages.

After this course, I plan to continue leaning French before moving on to study Spanish. While I found this multi-lingual aspect of the Luxembourg educational system daunting and impossible, its good intentions as they relate to business and the international world are undeniable. I promote bilingualism so intently because I speak only English fluently. I have minimal knowledge of Spanish and French. I believe the American educational system should do more to promote linguistic knowledge. As a country at the forefront of consumerism and international affairs, I believe its citizens should be educated. Because of the English language's relevance, so many Americans arrogantly choose against bilingualism. But after this program, and experiencing firsthand how lost and disorienting and rude it is to enter another country without knowing the language, I believe I have come away with the knowledge of language's importance to culture, society, and individualism.

 

Sophia

The French-Belgian Border as Language Divide

It was a great experience to stand on the border between France and Belgium, or more specifically, the border between the region of French Flanders that was annexed by France in the 17th century and the Flemish Flanders of Belgium. It is amazing that something unseen by the naked eye could represent something so significant to a region and transcend it so as to impact an entire culture. I enjoyed learning how this divide, a physical border, between the two regions is currently manifested in the language divide between the French and Dutch.

Lille, France

Throughout this course, it has been a challenge to truly define the Dutch identity. While I believe the concept of identity is a lofty one to understand in general, the Dutch identity has proven to be even more difficult to unwrap due to its history with Europe and its various countries. The language barrier between the French and Dutch cultures of Belgium has made defining and understanding Belgian identity a daunting task. Add to this the knowledge that there are region-specific Dutch identities, such as the Netherlands' Dutch Dutch culture in opposition to the Flemish Dutch culture, a distinction that was pointed out during our home stay dinner this past Friday. Although both qualify as Dutch cultures, the languages themselves differ as they break into regional dialects, the Netherlandish Dutch proving to be more Germanic and harsh in tone, a description from Order of the Prince member and former president, An de Moor, while the Flemish Dutch has a softer, French influence.

Lille, France

As there are already "rivalries" between the different Dutch cultures, I knew it was inevitable that there would be division between French Flanders and Belgian Flanders, a rivalry that soon manifested itself during the city tour of Lille between the director of the cultural organization Ons Erfdeel, Luc Devoldere, a Flemish man from Belgium, and our French tour guide, whose name I do not recall. I was not surprised that the spirit of competitiveness originated on the part of Luc. For a person of Flemish descent, I have learned, the preservation of the Dutch language and its culture is a priority unprecedented in the French culture due to its history with power. As discussed in lecture, there is still a defensiveness on the side of Dutch speakers. This is due in large to the history of the Dutch language and its association with the poor, oppressed working class.

Lille, France

I thought Luc was a wonderful guide when he spoke at the cultural organization. He was enthusiastic and knowledgable. However, in the company of our French tour guide, I felt that he became childish in his constant under-footed questions, and superlative comments about the Flemish influence in the French city of Lille. But in all it was an interesting interaction that provided an actual example of this boundary and divide between the two countries of France and Belgium, their cultures and their language and the divide within the two differing regions of French Flanders and Dutch Flanders.

 

Sophia

Flemish Pride

Dinner with the De Moor Family

Lokerse Paardenworsten and Fries

I believe the home stay dinner was the most enriching aspect of the BENELUX program thus far. As a course on the identity of the Low Countries, visiting and witnessing the authentic home life of a Flemish family proved beneficial to my newfound understanding of Dutch culture. Thus far, I have enjoyed the history of the Dutch language and its vital role in the identity of the Low Countries. My favorite lecture, and one that remains relevant to this evening, was the lecture given by Kevin of the Dutch Language Association. It was therefore an honor to meet An de Moor and dine with her family. Her personal story was an inspiring one, particularly because it intersects with Dutch history.

During dinner, we learned that An is currently a member of the Order of the Prince. But even more, she was the first woman invited to join the, at-the-time, all-male, secret organization. Despite initial opposition to her joining, An gained the organization's support and became its first female president. Her story, inspiring as it is on a personal level, gains even more prestige due to its national and political implications in relation to the Dutch identity.

Since our dinner, I have wondered a great deal about the Order of the Prince and how the organization is structured, specifically the differences between how the organization functioned before women were extended the opportunity to join and how it operates today. After hearing about the current dynamics of the organization, I am not entirely sure how far it has traversed since its starting point. According to An, the organization is comprised of 98 members, only five of which are currently women. In terms of preserving the Dutch language it makes sense that a group representation of Dutch people push for its preservation. I do not think the Dutch people are well represented in an organization whose female membership estimates at 19%.

Though comprising a small portion of the organization, I felt that An did a great job promoting her culture. When she would do so, she was very specific in her differentiation between the terms Belgian and Dutch. Where Belgian is the all-inclusive term referring to both Flanders and Wallonia, Dutch speaks primarily of Flanders and its culture. As a member of the Order of the Prince it makes sense that An was very adamant about using these two terms correctly. In her differentiation, I was able to understand the tensions that exist within Belgium regarding its two national languages, one that is not taken as lightly as I initially thought.

Her sense of regional pride was extended in the dish she served for dinner. An served a dish called lokerse paardenworsten, a sausage dish covered in a tomato soup specific to her hometown of Lokeren. The authenticity of the dish added to the spirit of An's role in preserving her language and her culture, a role I am happy to have experienced firsthand and one that I appreciate due to its uniqueness.

 

Sophia

More is MAS

Upon arrival to the Museum Aan de Stroom in Antwerp, or MAS as it is abbreviated, I was captivated by the architectural design of the building. While I appreciate the lovely medieval facades of the Low Countries and the history that these buildings entail, the stories they preserve, I find it refreshing to see and think about Europe from a more contemporary perspective, including its future.

The architectural design of the museum is very modern with its asymmetrical, linear stone structure and complementary waving glass floor to ceiling windows. With its gorgeous city view and its central, almost isolated location, the museum stands as a pillar of modernity and futurity within Flanders. With the knowledge that Antwerp is one of the largest ports in Europe, it is no mistake that this city is home to such a museum. Housing a great deal of historical artifacts and artworks that contemplate the great cultures of history and the modern day world, this museum stands as a metaphorical port in its own right, importing cultures from around the world and exporting the knowledge of these cultures to everyone who enters its doors.

I have really enjoyed seeing and learning about historical Europe. When I think about Europe, I tend to think about it in relation to its historical significance. I appreciate this museum, with its stunningly modern take on design, because it presents a different way of thinking about the European world. As a port town, Antwerp deals with the present. It is not concerned about yesterday or what is now history. It is concerned with today and tomorrow and the shipments that those days bring. It is no wonder that when I think of Antwerp, I do not think of a romantic medieval city. Instead, I think about it as I think about Rotterdam, as a modern day international hub.

Why do we not think about it the rest of Europe in terms of its contemporary importance? Surely the other cities within the Low Countries exist as contemporary cities with present day commercial, industrial, financial, and economic purposes and interests. Yet, there is an international stigma that Europe exists as a romantic getaway, suspended in time, unaffected by the typical stresses of daily life. Seeing how beautiful Europe is, how medieval it remains, it is easy together lost in this belief.

Cities like Antwerp and Rotterdam provide a great place to begin thinking about Europe outside of this romanticized ideal.

 

Sophia

Paradoxical Unification

The Groeninge Museum provided a complex exhibition that reinterpreted the work of the Flemish Primitives. I loved that the work was created by a female artist who was influenced by her studies of Chinese calligraphy. These added dimensions of cross-cultural artistic practices and stylistic techniques to this strictly Flemish work, reminding me of the manga exhibition at the World Museum in Rotterdam. The continual presence of multiculturalism in the various countries we have visited confirms my belief that multiculturalism today is a greater factor in determining the identity of the people in the Low Countries than racial or perhaps national purity once was.

Fabienne Verdier triptych

Unlike the fine detailing that characterized the paintings of the Flemish Primitives, the work of this artist, Fabienne Verdier, features minimalist elements such as thick brush strokes of vivid colors against complementary colored canvases, and fine black strokes against solid white backgrounds. Inspired by Chinese calligraphy, Verdier uses quick, swirling strokes to reinterpret the works of these great artists. The works in this exhibition were very modern in style and somewhat unreadable as modern art often is. However, the black and white paintings immediately reminded me of portrait silhouettes, introducing to me a new perspective of the theme of identity as it relates to minimalism.

Fabienne Verdier paintings

I was particularly interested in how these latter black and white paintings operated as one work. Situated alongside one another, the juxtaposition of the paintings allows for differentiation between the paintings' different identities. However, due to their overall visual similarities, the equal spacing between the frames, and the single linear arrangement of the paintings on the gallery wall, the works are simultaneously presented as equal in their identities. I believe this is due to the overall lack of identity that each of these paintings possess. Once interpreted as a silhouette, questions regarding individuality and personality arise. Comprised primarily of lines, these portraits lack any significant means of differentiation. No one is greater than the other. Everything is read in black and white, literally.

At first glance, this unified reading of the black and white paintings greatly differs from the more vibrant triptych above that celebrates contrast. However, after analyzing the exhibition as a whole, I believe the vibrant triptychs (there were multiple) provide a commentary for the black and white paintings and identity in general. While visually contrasting in color, the triptychs are comprised of complementary colors, colors that are meant to coexist. In difference, then, there is a sense of unity, a theme that is present within the black and white paintings, though in this latter case, unity is a possibility because identity is visually absent.

I believe this is the perfect commentary on multiculturalism as it exists within the Low Countries. Each country we have visited possesses a very multicultural identity. Belgium, and the region of Flanders, is no exception. The Flemish culture exists in opposition to its divide with French Wallonia. Like the vibrant triptych, Flanders exists as a complement to Wallonia, ultimately comprising the contradictory unified country of Belgium.

 

Sophia

How to Become Flemish, That is the Question

St. John's Hospital, Bruges, Belgium

Although I love the study of the history of art, my appreciation for medieval art is unfortunately nonexistent. I am not a fan of painted religious subjects. I find both the style and subject matter exhausting and redundant. Yet, medieval art is just as important to the Dutch identity as politics and history have proven significant. I found it interesting, then, that one particular artist, famous for his Flemish paintings, was not from Flanders originally, but arrived in Flanders from Germany. Hans Memling, originally from Germany, painted the Shrine of St. Ursula, the artwork that was the focus of today's visit to St. John's Hospital.

I think it is first important to consider the site of this artwork, St. John's Hospital, a medieval hospital from the 11th century situated in Bruges, Belgium, that is today one of Europe's oldest surviving hospital buildings. The significance of this building to Bruges, Flanders, and Belgium, then, is undeniable. According to history, the hospital grew significantly during the Middle Ages and was the local haven that oversaw the care of sick pilgrims and travelers. Already, as is shown, the hospital had a history in its dealings with foreigners. Because of this historical association with pilgrims and travelers, I do not believe that it is entirely coincidental that the hospital has been turned into the museum that houses the collection of Hans Memling, a German-born Flemish painter, a foreigner in terms of his nationality.

Contemplating the work of Hans Memling along with his nationality and the painting style with which he is associated, I began to formulate further questions regarding the painter's identity. During his life, Hans Memling identified with a very specific painting style that was attributed to Flanders, and as a result he is now considered one of the great Flemish painters, though in reality he was not Flemish by nationality. Furthermore, his work and the museum dedicated to his art is housed in Bruges, in a medieval Flemish church, rather than in his native country of Germany.

I find this issue, that of the reconciliation between national and ethnic identity, to be a recurring one that I have come across throughout this program. When I think of identity, I think of ethnic identity as I find it to be more definite. Yet, ethnic identity possesses its own amalgamation of problems when thinking in terms of time. How long must one reside within a certain place before the national identity becomes an ethnic identity? Will a fifth-generation Black man whose family has resided within France for that duration of time ever be French by ethnic standards? And according to this logic, why was Hans Memling adopted as a Flemish painter if he was not truly Flemish? Or perhaps he was considered truly Flemish because he resided within the region of Flanders?

I thoroughly enjoy these sorts of questions about identity because an answer is never truly available. Yet they do provide a lot to think about in terms of how we define ourselves and how we are defined by others.

 

Sophia